Pictured here is Sean Starky on Massive Friday. When it was realized that a bodysurfer was missing in the water this day the beach was going crazy. Everyone had there eyes open trying to find the missing bodysurfer. Sean was on the shore near the jetty with his fins on. He spotted the body floating for a moment. The lifeless body was getting thrown into the jagged jetty rocks. Sean jumped into the dangerous situation along with one of the lifeguards on the beach that day. They both swam to rescue the man in trouble. They placed their own lives in very real danger to help the victim. They did manage to get the man away from the rock and out into the line up. There all the bodysurfers pitched in and tried their best to help the man. CPR was given in the water but to no avail.
The lifeguard boat was finally able to get close enough to the group to lift him onboard. The victim was then rushed to the hospital where he was pronounced dead. The man had drowned before even being thrown into the rocks. The efforts of Sean and all the others were nothing short of heroic.
Sean came very close to being killed himself. He got thrown into the rocks and took some water into his lungs. Paramedics and lifeguards on the beach made sure to check him out very closely. I gave him his space as he recovered from his physical injuries. I did however go to him and patted him on the leg and let him know he did a great job and that it was all he could do. He was visibly mentally shaken as well and was in a state of shock.
Sean is a friend of mine. I took this picture along with another 11 shots in a sequence of this ride. I have e-mailed him the pictures and offered full rez versions of any he wants. It's the least I can do to reward him for his efforts. I'm very proud of him. My hat's off to Sean Starky...a hero.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Charging
Charging is a term used to describe a surfer who has fully committed ones self to taking off and riding a big, fast and powerful wave. Here in this picture, Jeff Mitchell, is charging this wave. There is no sign of him pulling back or giving up. Total commitment. Total concentration. 100% determination. All this combined with excellent swimming ability and years of bodysurfing experience give him at least a chance. This was one of the biggest waves bodysurfed this day. Jeff made it for a while until the wave eventually overtook him.
This would have to be classified as extreme bodysurfing. Not your average playful experience in the waves. This is the sport / artform at it's highest level. Serious surfing with the potential for major consequences. It's as dangerous as it is thrilling. Trust me, this still picture doesn't show how much movement is going on or the speed in which it's all happening.
This would have to be classified as extreme bodysurfing. Not your average playful experience in the waves. This is the sport / artform at it's highest level. Serious surfing with the potential for major consequences. It's as dangerous as it is thrilling. Trust me, this still picture doesn't show how much movement is going on or the speed in which it's all happening.
The Unridden Realm
When is it to big to bodysurf? When does it become physically impossible to catch and ride a wave with just your swimming ability and a pair of fins? Well... Friday July 24th 2009 was the biggest I have ever personally witnessed the waves at Wedge. Not one major set wave was ridden. I know this because I was there. I was at the beach from 7:00am till 5:00pm. Sure a few pretty big waves were ridden. There were certainly plenty of people who swam out with the intentions of catching one of the big ones. But no one did. Was it to big to bodysurf?
With all the hype, crowds of spectators, news trucks and reporters, huge surf, consistent sets and a steady supply of people willing to tackle the beast it was not surprising that someone would die. The conditions were just crazy. Why anyone would put themselves in that kind of danger is hard to explain. One man drowned and in the rescue attempts by brave bodysurfers and lifeguards more people nearly drowned. It was a terrible scene, a real tragedy. A wake up call for some.
Earlier I gave it a shot. I swam out. I realized quick I was in way over my head. I caught a tiny 10-12 foot faced wave. It worked me pretty good so I swam in to rest. Getting in wasn't easy either. As I stood on the beach a massive 25-30 foot faced set of at least ten waves stormed in. This particular set rearranged the whole shoreline. Let's just say I counted my blessings for being on the beach when this set came in. I decided not to go back out. It was to big for me.
So with no powered assistance or boards to help obtain the speed needed to possibly ride these beasts, the biggest waves were not bodysurfed on this day. I think we discovered this day the unridden realm.
With all the hype, crowds of spectators, news trucks and reporters, huge surf, consistent sets and a steady supply of people willing to tackle the beast it was not surprising that someone would die. The conditions were just crazy. Why anyone would put themselves in that kind of danger is hard to explain. One man drowned and in the rescue attempts by brave bodysurfers and lifeguards more people nearly drowned. It was a terrible scene, a real tragedy. A wake up call for some.
Earlier I gave it a shot. I swam out. I realized quick I was in way over my head. I caught a tiny 10-12 foot faced wave. It worked me pretty good so I swam in to rest. Getting in wasn't easy either. As I stood on the beach a massive 25-30 foot faced set of at least ten waves stormed in. This particular set rearranged the whole shoreline. Let's just say I counted my blessings for being on the beach when this set came in. I decided not to go back out. It was to big for me.
So with no powered assistance or boards to help obtain the speed needed to possibly ride these beasts, the biggest waves were not bodysurfed on this day. I think we discovered this day the unridden realm.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Fins are all you need
Of course you don't really even need fins to bodysurf. But if you really want to surf the waves fins are a big help. Catching waves, holding trim lines, catching shifting peaks, swimming out on big days and safety are all good reasons to wear fins. It is a rater liberating feeling in this world where so much gear is needed to participate in an activity. Board riders need a board at a minimum. Anyone who has traveled know taking a board can sometimes be a nightmare. Fins can be put in a carry on bag or checked in the luggage. Or a simple walk or bike ride to the beach with just fins in hand. So convenient, so easy. The less gear you have to carry the more freedom you have. Once you realize that freedom along with the stoke and thrill of riding waves so closely connected to Mother Nature it's hard to go back to lugging a bunch of stuff around. You just might get hooked! A board does have it's place though. I know because I do both. Nothing wrong with having the best of both worlds. But undeniably the freedom you have as a bodysurfer is a beautiful experience.
I took this picture of my fins and the sunset when I was heading home from the beach after a fun session in the waves. These are the all black UDT Duckfeet. This is the best pair of UDT's I have ever used. Just an amazing fin. I must say when swimming with these fins on you really feel like you belong in the ocean. They turn you into a hybrid ocean going mammal.
I took this picture of my fins and the sunset when I was heading home from the beach after a fun session in the waves. These are the all black UDT Duckfeet. This is the best pair of UDT's I have ever used. Just an amazing fin. I must say when swimming with these fins on you really feel like you belong in the ocean. They turn you into a hybrid ocean going mammal.
The Beauty of Bodysurfing
Bodysurfing puts you deep in the action. Or in Mother Nature's Womb as I like to refer to it. Any bodysurfer will tell you there is a real connection to the wave. To be completely immersed in the water and surrounded by such power is a feeling not many know. Board surfers stay on the surface and slide over and around the power. Bodysurfing is a rush just like board surfing but with something extra. Bodysurfing brings you as close to nature as you can get. It's almost a spiritual experience. Really when you get right down to it there's nothing like it. The feeling you get is simply a gift. Bodysurfers are a lucky bunch of people. The more experienced the rider the deeper the spiritual feeling. The "of the body" experience is one that is satisfying and exhilarating. The closeness to nature and all it's power is truly one of the wonders of our world.
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Wedge
The word "WEDGE" describes and is the complete name of the surf spot. The word is also used almost universally in all languages to describe a wave that breaks like Wedge. Call a wave a wedge and any surfer in any language would think any one, combination of or even all of these descriptions would fit: Steep, hollow, powerful, scary, intense, dangerous, A-Framed, jacking and mutant. I'm going to go out on a limb and say the term "wedge" was invented here.
This is not considered big for Wedge. It is breaking pretty big though as far as I'm concerned. This was a typical early season SW swell. Not many on the beach. These two guys were just kickin it watching the action. Looked like an older father and son together. Regular people enjoying the spectacle that is bodysurfing at Wedge. They didn't look to be thinking about going out either. But...in the summer when a big swell shows up or even if one is predicted this place fills up with hundreds if not thousands of people. The beach at Wedge is like a giant amphitheater when this happens. TV news crews and their big trucks and antennas. Photographers of all kinds. But you wouldn't know it by this photo. I wish I had a pic of a big crowd to show you but I don't. At least one of my own that is. I'm sure if you want to see a pic like that, if you already haven't, you can find one.
This is not considered big for Wedge. It is breaking pretty big though as far as I'm concerned. This was a typical early season SW swell. Not many on the beach. These two guys were just kickin it watching the action. Looked like an older father and son together. Regular people enjoying the spectacle that is bodysurfing at Wedge. They didn't look to be thinking about going out either. But...in the summer when a big swell shows up or even if one is predicted this place fills up with hundreds if not thousands of people. The beach at Wedge is like a giant amphitheater when this happens. TV news crews and their big trucks and antennas. Photographers of all kinds. But you wouldn't know it by this photo. I wish I had a pic of a big crowd to show you but I don't. At least one of my own that is. I'm sure if you want to see a pic like that, if you already haven't, you can find one.
Synchronized Swimming
Here is the opposite of contest bodysurfing. Swimming out into an empty line up with a few friends. I like to capture all kinds of bodysurfing images. From close ups that show the eyes and expressions to wide shots that give a good view of the lineups. This is one of those shots that really makes you want to get out there!
The spot is one of the true bodysurfing sanctuaries in Southern California. And with it a dedicated core crew of bodysurfers. Most that ride here don't compete. Similar to how the Wedge Crew guys don't. It seems odd to me that some of the best bodysurfers don't compete in contests. It also seems good to me too knowing that the main reason these people bodysurf is because of their love for it. No prizes, trophies or glory. Just that satisfied feeling that only a surfer knows after a good session in the waves.
The spot is one of the true bodysurfing sanctuaries in Southern California. And with it a dedicated core crew of bodysurfers. Most that ride here don't compete. Similar to how the Wedge Crew guys don't. It seems odd to me that some of the best bodysurfers don't compete in contests. It also seems good to me too knowing that the main reason these people bodysurf is because of their love for it. No prizes, trophies or glory. Just that satisfied feeling that only a surfer knows after a good session in the waves.
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