Pictured here is Sean Starky on Massive Friday. When it was realized that a bodysurfer was missing in the water this day the beach was going crazy. Everyone had there eyes open trying to find the missing bodysurfer. Sean was on the shore near the jetty with his fins on. He spotted the body floating for a moment. The lifeless body was getting thrown into the jagged jetty rocks. Sean jumped into the dangerous situation along with one of the lifeguards on the beach that day. They both swam to rescue the man in trouble. They placed their own lives in very real danger to help the victim. They did manage to get the man away from the rock and out into the line up. There all the bodysurfers pitched in and tried their best to help the man. CPR was given in the water but to no avail.
The lifeguard boat was finally able to get close enough to the group to lift him onboard. The victim was then rushed to the hospital where he was pronounced dead. The man had drowned before even being thrown into the rocks. The efforts of Sean and all the others were nothing short of heroic.
Sean came very close to being killed himself. He got thrown into the rocks and took some water into his lungs. Paramedics and lifeguards on the beach made sure to check him out very closely. I gave him his space as he recovered from his physical injuries. I did however go to him and patted him on the leg and let him know he did a great job and that it was all he could do. He was visibly mentally shaken as well and was in a state of shock.
Sean is a friend of mine. I took this picture along with another 11 shots in a sequence of this ride. I have e-mailed him the pictures and offered full rez versions of any he wants. It's the least I can do to reward him for his efforts. I'm very proud of him. My hat's off to Sean Starky...a hero.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Charging
Charging is a term used to describe a surfer who has fully committed ones self to taking off and riding a big, fast and powerful wave. Here in this picture, Jeff Mitchell, is charging this wave. There is no sign of him pulling back or giving up. Total commitment. Total concentration. 100% determination. All this combined with excellent swimming ability and years of bodysurfing experience give him at least a chance. This was one of the biggest waves bodysurfed this day. Jeff made it for a while until the wave eventually overtook him.
This would have to be classified as extreme bodysurfing. Not your average playful experience in the waves. This is the sport / artform at it's highest level. Serious surfing with the potential for major consequences. It's as dangerous as it is thrilling. Trust me, this still picture doesn't show how much movement is going on or the speed in which it's all happening.
This would have to be classified as extreme bodysurfing. Not your average playful experience in the waves. This is the sport / artform at it's highest level. Serious surfing with the potential for major consequences. It's as dangerous as it is thrilling. Trust me, this still picture doesn't show how much movement is going on or the speed in which it's all happening.
The Unridden Realm
When is it to big to bodysurf? When does it become physically impossible to catch and ride a wave with just your swimming ability and a pair of fins? Well... Friday July 24th 2009 was the biggest I have ever personally witnessed the waves at Wedge. Not one major set wave was ridden. I know this because I was there. I was at the beach from 7:00am till 5:00pm. Sure a few pretty big waves were ridden. There were certainly plenty of people who swam out with the intentions of catching one of the big ones. But no one did. Was it to big to bodysurf?
With all the hype, crowds of spectators, news trucks and reporters, huge surf, consistent sets and a steady supply of people willing to tackle the beast it was not surprising that someone would die. The conditions were just crazy. Why anyone would put themselves in that kind of danger is hard to explain. One man drowned and in the rescue attempts by brave bodysurfers and lifeguards more people nearly drowned. It was a terrible scene, a real tragedy. A wake up call for some.
Earlier I gave it a shot. I swam out. I realized quick I was in way over my head. I caught a tiny 10-12 foot faced wave. It worked me pretty good so I swam in to rest. Getting in wasn't easy either. As I stood on the beach a massive 25-30 foot faced set of at least ten waves stormed in. This particular set rearranged the whole shoreline. Let's just say I counted my blessings for being on the beach when this set came in. I decided not to go back out. It was to big for me.
So with no powered assistance or boards to help obtain the speed needed to possibly ride these beasts, the biggest waves were not bodysurfed on this day. I think we discovered this day the unridden realm.
With all the hype, crowds of spectators, news trucks and reporters, huge surf, consistent sets and a steady supply of people willing to tackle the beast it was not surprising that someone would die. The conditions were just crazy. Why anyone would put themselves in that kind of danger is hard to explain. One man drowned and in the rescue attempts by brave bodysurfers and lifeguards more people nearly drowned. It was a terrible scene, a real tragedy. A wake up call for some.
Earlier I gave it a shot. I swam out. I realized quick I was in way over my head. I caught a tiny 10-12 foot faced wave. It worked me pretty good so I swam in to rest. Getting in wasn't easy either. As I stood on the beach a massive 25-30 foot faced set of at least ten waves stormed in. This particular set rearranged the whole shoreline. Let's just say I counted my blessings for being on the beach when this set came in. I decided not to go back out. It was to big for me.
So with no powered assistance or boards to help obtain the speed needed to possibly ride these beasts, the biggest waves were not bodysurfed on this day. I think we discovered this day the unridden realm.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Fins are all you need
Of course you don't really even need fins to bodysurf. But if you really want to surf the waves fins are a big help. Catching waves, holding trim lines, catching shifting peaks, swimming out on big days and safety are all good reasons to wear fins. It is a rater liberating feeling in this world where so much gear is needed to participate in an activity. Board riders need a board at a minimum. Anyone who has traveled know taking a board can sometimes be a nightmare. Fins can be put in a carry on bag or checked in the luggage. Or a simple walk or bike ride to the beach with just fins in hand. So convenient, so easy. The less gear you have to carry the more freedom you have. Once you realize that freedom along with the stoke and thrill of riding waves so closely connected to Mother Nature it's hard to go back to lugging a bunch of stuff around. You just might get hooked! A board does have it's place though. I know because I do both. Nothing wrong with having the best of both worlds. But undeniably the freedom you have as a bodysurfer is a beautiful experience.
I took this picture of my fins and the sunset when I was heading home from the beach after a fun session in the waves. These are the all black UDT Duckfeet. This is the best pair of UDT's I have ever used. Just an amazing fin. I must say when swimming with these fins on you really feel like you belong in the ocean. They turn you into a hybrid ocean going mammal.
I took this picture of my fins and the sunset when I was heading home from the beach after a fun session in the waves. These are the all black UDT Duckfeet. This is the best pair of UDT's I have ever used. Just an amazing fin. I must say when swimming with these fins on you really feel like you belong in the ocean. They turn you into a hybrid ocean going mammal.
The Beauty of Bodysurfing
Bodysurfing puts you deep in the action. Or in Mother Nature's Womb as I like to refer to it. Any bodysurfer will tell you there is a real connection to the wave. To be completely immersed in the water and surrounded by such power is a feeling not many know. Board surfers stay on the surface and slide over and around the power. Bodysurfing is a rush just like board surfing but with something extra. Bodysurfing brings you as close to nature as you can get. It's almost a spiritual experience. Really when you get right down to it there's nothing like it. The feeling you get is simply a gift. Bodysurfers are a lucky bunch of people. The more experienced the rider the deeper the spiritual feeling. The "of the body" experience is one that is satisfying and exhilarating. The closeness to nature and all it's power is truly one of the wonders of our world.
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Wedge
The word "WEDGE" describes and is the complete name of the surf spot. The word is also used almost universally in all languages to describe a wave that breaks like Wedge. Call a wave a wedge and any surfer in any language would think any one, combination of or even all of these descriptions would fit: Steep, hollow, powerful, scary, intense, dangerous, A-Framed, jacking and mutant. I'm going to go out on a limb and say the term "wedge" was invented here.
This is not considered big for Wedge. It is breaking pretty big though as far as I'm concerned. This was a typical early season SW swell. Not many on the beach. These two guys were just kickin it watching the action. Looked like an older father and son together. Regular people enjoying the spectacle that is bodysurfing at Wedge. They didn't look to be thinking about going out either. But...in the summer when a big swell shows up or even if one is predicted this place fills up with hundreds if not thousands of people. The beach at Wedge is like a giant amphitheater when this happens. TV news crews and their big trucks and antennas. Photographers of all kinds. But you wouldn't know it by this photo. I wish I had a pic of a big crowd to show you but I don't. At least one of my own that is. I'm sure if you want to see a pic like that, if you already haven't, you can find one.
This is not considered big for Wedge. It is breaking pretty big though as far as I'm concerned. This was a typical early season SW swell. Not many on the beach. These two guys were just kickin it watching the action. Looked like an older father and son together. Regular people enjoying the spectacle that is bodysurfing at Wedge. They didn't look to be thinking about going out either. But...in the summer when a big swell shows up or even if one is predicted this place fills up with hundreds if not thousands of people. The beach at Wedge is like a giant amphitheater when this happens. TV news crews and their big trucks and antennas. Photographers of all kinds. But you wouldn't know it by this photo. I wish I had a pic of a big crowd to show you but I don't. At least one of my own that is. I'm sure if you want to see a pic like that, if you already haven't, you can find one.
Synchronized Swimming
Here is the opposite of contest bodysurfing. Swimming out into an empty line up with a few friends. I like to capture all kinds of bodysurfing images. From close ups that show the eyes and expressions to wide shots that give a good view of the lineups. This is one of those shots that really makes you want to get out there!
The spot is one of the true bodysurfing sanctuaries in Southern California. And with it a dedicated core crew of bodysurfers. Most that ride here don't compete. Similar to how the Wedge Crew guys don't. It seems odd to me that some of the best bodysurfers don't compete in contests. It also seems good to me too knowing that the main reason these people bodysurf is because of their love for it. No prizes, trophies or glory. Just that satisfied feeling that only a surfer knows after a good session in the waves.
The spot is one of the true bodysurfing sanctuaries in Southern California. And with it a dedicated core crew of bodysurfers. Most that ride here don't compete. Similar to how the Wedge Crew guys don't. It seems odd to me that some of the best bodysurfers don't compete in contests. It also seems good to me too knowing that the main reason these people bodysurf is because of their love for it. No prizes, trophies or glory. Just that satisfied feeling that only a surfer knows after a good session in the waves.
Chris Lafferty- The Red Dolphin
I took this shot from the Oceanside Pier during a contest. This is Chris Lafferty. A good friend and one of the most successful competitive bodysurfers I know. This was my favorite shot of all I took during this contest. An underwater takeoff just before he breaks the surface. Humm...this looks like it would be an interesting shot in a surf mag.
Chris wears this red bodysuit when competing. I think it gives him a slight advantage. He likes the fact it protects his very fair skin from the hot summer sun. Either way it works out well for him.
Chris wears this red bodysuit when competing. I think it gives him a slight advantage. He likes the fact it protects his very fair skin from the hot summer sun. Either way it works out well for him.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
The big payoff for winning a bodysurfing contest
This is about all you get if you win the Grand Championship. A trophy of some kind. The Grand Championship is a final heat of all the 1st place finishers from all the age groups. Men and women have their own Grand finals respectively. This trophy and maybe a few prizes are about all you get for such a great accomplishment. It's like pulling teeth to get any company in the surf biz to give any goods to be used as prizes. Anything would help. It would also get the product name brands exposure to more people. We all use the same sunscreens, swimsuits, wetsuits, backpacks, fins, hats and clothes. In an economy like we have right now it would seem like a no brainer to me to target as big a market as you can. Why give up business?
Women compete too
Women also bodysurf. It's not just a mans sport. I know I never implied that but wanted to note this. From young girls to mature grown women they enjoy the sport/artform that is bodysurfing.
I took this picture from the Oceanside Pier during the World Bodysurfing Championships. I really think that women are a big part of bodysurfing. I think there is so much room for bodysurfing to grow. The surf industry needs to open there eyes and start promoting it. Why not? I would have to think that the regular surfers out there must be getting tired of the same old thing. Shortboard rippers doing all the same moves on all the same boards. It's getting a little boring if you ask me. It has it's place but so does bodysurfing.
I took this picture from the Oceanside Pier during the World Bodysurfing Championships. I really think that women are a big part of bodysurfing. I think there is so much room for bodysurfing to grow. The surf industry needs to open there eyes and start promoting it. Why not? I would have to think that the regular surfers out there must be getting tired of the same old thing. Shortboard rippers doing all the same moves on all the same boards. It's getting a little boring if you ask me. It has it's place but so does bodysurfing.
Compitition
There has always been a debate wether bodysurfing is a sport or an art form. Depending on who you are it could be either one or both. Most bodysurfing is done for fun, exercise and camaraderie. So a combination of fun and fitness makes it a soulful experience. The kind that takes your mind of all the pressures of life. The kind of activity that will keep you young and fit. There are bodysurfing competitions too. Contests usually have age group divisions since everyone from little kids to grown adults compete. Bodysurfing in this way would make it a sport. Competing against one and other to see who is best, to have a winner. Competition is a stressful environment. The pressure of trying to out do others in the short amount of time in a competitive heat is heavy. Some enjoy this, some don't.
Rod Heburn took this picture of me in the final heat of the 35-44 age group at the World Bodysurfing Championships in Oceanside California. The name "World Championships" is thrown around a bit lightly I think in this case. There are competitors from other parts of the world but the majority are from right here in California. The sport of bodysurfing has very little in the way of sponsorship for the athletes. Therefore not many can afford to take time off from regular jobs to compete in a foreign land. There also is no pro circuit or anything like that. Without the support of the surf industry There is no money. With no money you can't get a legitimate gathering of the worlds best to compete. I really want to change the perception the surf industry has about bodysurfing. Why the surf mags don't or I should say rarely ever promote bodysurfing is a mystery to me. I'd like to change that.
Rod Heburn took this picture of me in the final heat of the 35-44 age group at the World Bodysurfing Championships in Oceanside California. The name "World Championships" is thrown around a bit lightly I think in this case. There are competitors from other parts of the world but the majority are from right here in California. The sport of bodysurfing has very little in the way of sponsorship for the athletes. Therefore not many can afford to take time off from regular jobs to compete in a foreign land. There also is no pro circuit or anything like that. Without the support of the surf industry There is no money. With no money you can't get a legitimate gathering of the worlds best to compete. I really want to change the perception the surf industry has about bodysurfing. Why the surf mags don't or I should say rarely ever promote bodysurfing is a mystery to me. I'd like to change that.
Nick @ the Cove
I took this shot on Big Wednesday. Local Nick Menas caught, without much argument, the biggest wave this day. Here he is sliding down the face of a Cove beast. He's in early and the wave is still growing.
This is the message I'm trying to convey in this blog. There is amazing talent, drama, excitement and true watermanship in this sport/artform that is bodysurfing. It's not just a daredevil thing. True bodysurfing is just that...surfing. It takes skill, commitment and talent. And more than anything it takes time to learn. Conditioning is very important! No board to float on means not much rest out there.
I want to push the documentation of bodysurfing to another level. I want to work in this field and get paid doing it. Be it starting a new bodysurfing magazine, publishing a bodysurfing book, making a bodysurfing movie or documentary, teaching bodysurfing classes or just selling prints, I want to do it!
This is the message I'm trying to convey in this blog. There is amazing talent, drama, excitement and true watermanship in this sport/artform that is bodysurfing. It's not just a daredevil thing. True bodysurfing is just that...surfing. It takes skill, commitment and talent. And more than anything it takes time to learn. Conditioning is very important! No board to float on means not much rest out there.
I want to push the documentation of bodysurfing to another level. I want to work in this field and get paid doing it. Be it starting a new bodysurfing magazine, publishing a bodysurfing book, making a bodysurfing movie or documentary, teaching bodysurfing classes or just selling prints, I want to do it!
Big Wednesday Dec 5 2007
This was a day when the waves were too big to swim out in at Boomer. The wave in the background is the left I like so much. Entering the water at this spot on this day would have been suicide. The Cove was the only place near that was manageable. A few brave and strong swimming bodysurfers swam out to the right of this peak at the Cove. Being a marine reserve surfboards are not allowed in the water here. However when it's big enough for the Cove to break the wave extends out of range of the marine reserve. This allows most of the wave accessible to the board riders. The tight corner on the top of the Cove, which is located in the marine reserve, offered room for a few bodysurfers to get some of the big ones that day.
Jerry freer
I took this shot the same day Jerry took the shot of me jumping in. Jerry gets some pretty big waves out there. This is Jerry's style, riding on both hands in front of him. This was one of the biggest and best days I had ever seen at this spot. And it was good all day. I was there from sunrise to sunset. I sure will never regret calling in sick at work so I could spend the day doing what I love. Bodysurfing and shooting bodysurfing pics. What made it even better is that we all got a few shots of each other. It was pretty cool sharing them and talking story about the day.
A man and his fins...
Bodysurfers are unique people. How many people do you know that would put on a wetsuit and dive off a cliff into the ocean with nothing more than a pair of fins? You must be pretty confident you will survive. Once you leap in it's you and the ocean. This isn't a team sport. You must have the ability to not only survive but never put anyone else in danger in the event they must rescue you. This picture was taken of me by Jerry Freer of San Diego. Jerry is a true bodysurfer. A guy that would jump right in on a day like this and be in his ideal element. There were some solid sets this day. Anyone who has ever had to time an ocean entry on a big day knows what must be going on in my head!
Boomer and yours truly
This picture was taken of me by San Diego photographer Rod Hepburn. Rod is a good friend of mine. He is one of the very few photographers that are interested in bodysurfing. We have a blast together when we shoot the surf.
In this shot I'm riding over a ver shallow rock reef. The shoreline is also all rock this time of year. The lefts here are much more dangerous for they head directly into the head of the point. The rights are more popular and a bit safer. I'd like to stress this spot is for experts only. It is extreemly trecherous.
In this shot I'm riding over a ver shallow rock reef. The shoreline is also all rock this time of year. The lefts here are much more dangerous for they head directly into the head of the point. The rights are more popular and a bit safer. I'd like to stress this spot is for experts only. It is extreemly trecherous.
Flat out speed
What you can't see here is the speed. The rider is being pushed through the jacking peak. This is a very exhilarating moment. If only the waves were perfect and never closed out. Quite often at Wedge the rider has a great ride only to be hurled into the oblivion of a clamshell closeout.
The Layout
A wave is sometimes like a jewel. Here a bodysurfer rides the wave in a laid out position. His body forming an edge to hold into the waveface.
foamball express
The Wedge in Newport Beach Ca. A very unique wave that is perfectly suited for bodysurfing. Here Joe Schones is getting the turbo boost of the foamball.
the pit
What goes on in the mind of a human when surrounded and immersed completely in mother natures womb?
no board needed
Being "of the body" means simply that. Riding waves, deep in the pit with just your body as the vehicle. Can you think of a more natural way to ride waves?
My passion is surf photography.
In the area I live there are literally 100's of surf photographers. The city, San Clemente, is home to some of the most popular surf publications known to man. So I guess this is a pretty much a very competitive field. Surfing is big business here. To stand out or even get anyone in the biz to talk to you or look at your work is nearly impossible.
It's even going to be tougher for me. I specialize in Bodysurfing photography. An almost forgotten art, bodysurfing, is the most pure form of surfing there is. But in an industry driven by pro surfing, money, sponsors and advertising bodysurfing goes relatively unnoticed. It is however what I'm really into. I intend to push myself and take bodysurfing photography to a higher level. One of my main photographic influences is Ron Romanosky. His bodysurfing photography over the last 30 years is legendary.
I'll post a few examples of my bodysurfing work shortly. The previous pictures posted of the mens and women's open NSSA National Champs are more of what the surf industry is looking for. These 2 champs, Kolohe Andino and Lakey Peterson represent the future to the surf industry. When top industry executives look at these 2 they see $$$$$! When they see bodysurfing shots they think oh that's nice and yes I love doing it but....no$$$$$.
And as a footnote to this blog entry bodysurfing around the world is much more popular than most people know. In Brazil bodysurfing ranks up there with soccer and Jujitsu. Board surfing sports still might dominate overall but in a country like Brazil bodysurfing is a perfect fit. The athletes that do it are well respected too. France is another country were bodysurfing is very popular. Again though taking a back seat to the mainstream board surfing sports.
I share in a worldwide network of bodysurfers. The internet has made this possible. I am in contact with bodysurfers throughout my state of California, up and down the East coast of the US, Hawaii, Brazil, France, Canary Islands, Australia, New Zealand, Chili, Peru, Mexico, Costa Rica, Spain, England, Ireland and Portugal. Not a mainstream activity but full of more stoke and soul than any other form of surfing. Some might even call it an underground movement.
So you kind of see what I'm up against. People appreciate bodysurfing but only think of it as a 2nd rate way to ride waves. When in fact it is the root of all surfing, surfing in it's purest form! And I intend to show the world this...
some things are just timeless- the classic cutback
2009 Open Mens NSSA National Champion Kolohe Andino
2009 us national womens open champion lakey peterson
I shot the finals of the 2009 NSSA Nationals back in June. Here is the womens open champion Lakey Peterson.
things happen for a reason
Well this is the beginning. The beginning of a new direction for me. You see like many others I got laid off from my most recent "real" job of 11 years. I'm not bummed out or depressed over this. Quite the contrary. I'm stoked! I now have a freedom I never had in a long time. A freedom to take my dreams and actually live them.
Of course this might be a bit tough with very little money. It will be 1 step at a time. Small steps at that. But I intend to build on each step. We aren't getting any younger and life is short. I just want to do a few things and now it seems I have the time. Now I just have to put in some effort.
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