Here is the opposite of contest bodysurfing. Swimming out into an empty line up with a few friends. I like to capture all kinds of bodysurfing images. From close ups that show the eyes and expressions to wide shots that give a good view of the lineups. This is one of those shots that really makes you want to get out there!
The spot is one of the true bodysurfing sanctuaries in Southern California. And with it a dedicated core crew of bodysurfers. Most that ride here don't compete. Similar to how the Wedge Crew guys don't. It seems odd to me that some of the best bodysurfers don't compete in contests. It also seems good to me too knowing that the main reason these people bodysurf is because of their love for it. No prizes, trophies or glory. Just that satisfied feeling that only a surfer knows after a good session in the waves.
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So true Hugh,when I look at that pic of your friends swimming out to perfect waves makes me want to be the 5th guy behind. A handfull of bodysurfers in waves like this is magical and rare, but it does happen. Even at places like Point Panic you can have a session like this. I know I have. Not just once but several times. I remember just last month during the last game of the NBA finals. Panics was a little crowded all day long. When the game started on TV, I was shooting video under the tree at the point. I noticed the crowd in the line-up suddenly disappeared with only about four heads in the line-up. I quickly packed my video gear into my backpack and ran to my car to stash the gear and grab my fins to jump into the line-up. There was a big group of bodysurfer huddled around a portable TV with the final half of the game going on. I enjoyed about a good hour of perfect rights at Panics with just a few others. It was magical, a handful of us in the line-up took turns taking the set waves. Just a few hours earlier bodysurfers were fighting for those waves.
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