When is it to big to bodysurf? When does it become physically impossible to catch and ride a wave with just your swimming ability and a pair of fins? Well... Friday July 24th 2009 was the biggest I have ever personally witnessed the waves at Wedge. Not one major set wave was ridden. I know this because I was there. I was at the beach from 7:00am till 5:00pm. Sure a few pretty big waves were ridden. There were certainly plenty of people who swam out with the intentions of catching one of the big ones. But no one did. Was it to big to bodysurf?
With all the hype, crowds of spectators, news trucks and reporters, huge surf, consistent sets and a steady supply of people willing to tackle the beast it was not surprising that someone would die. The conditions were just crazy. Why anyone would put themselves in that kind of danger is hard to explain. One man drowned and in the rescue attempts by brave bodysurfers and lifeguards more people nearly drowned. It was a terrible scene, a real tragedy. A wake up call for some.
Earlier I gave it a shot. I swam out. I realized quick I was in way over my head. I caught a tiny 10-12 foot faced wave. It worked me pretty good so I swam in to rest. Getting in wasn't easy either. As I stood on the beach a massive 25-30 foot faced set of at least ten waves stormed in. This particular set rearranged the whole shoreline. Let's just say I counted my blessings for being on the beach when this set came in. I decided not to go back out. It was to big for me.
So with no powered assistance or boards to help obtain the speed needed to possibly ride these beasts, the biggest waves were not bodysurfed on this day. I think we discovered this day the unridden realm.
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