I took this shot on Big Wednesday. Local Nick Menas caught, without much argument, the biggest wave this day. Here he is sliding down the face of a Cove beast. He's in early and the wave is still growing.
This is the message I'm trying to convey in this blog. There is amazing talent, drama, excitement and true watermanship in this sport/artform that is bodysurfing. It's not just a daredevil thing. True bodysurfing is just that...surfing. It takes skill, commitment and talent. And more than anything it takes time to learn. Conditioning is very important! No board to float on means not much rest out there.
I want to push the documentation of bodysurfing to another level. I want to work in this field and get paid doing it. Be it starting a new bodysurfing magazine, publishing a bodysurfing book, making a bodysurfing movie or documentary, teaching bodysurfing classes or just selling prints, I want to do it!
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment